Given that roast has been paramount at the Grand Divan for well over a century, executive chef David Stephens did not take the matter of beef-sourcing lightly. Securing the very finest ribs for the restaurant was, he says, ‘a process.’ For the initial tastings, Stephens reached out to dozens of farmers and suppliers, eventually narrowing the field to the final five. ‘This is when the real fun started,’ he says. ‘The tastings were completely blind, and scores were given.’ So which ribs passed muster for Stephens and his discerning critics including Jeremy King, Robert Holland, and Michael Johnston? Devon Red Ruby beef from Edenmoor.
The Ruby Red Devon cattle is native to Exmoor, where they are bred on the moorland and subsist on their mother’s milk for nine months. Once weaned, they eat whatever is on the pasture — herb-rich grass, hay, or silage. They are grown slowly and as naturally as possible, with minimal use of medication, to ensure the rich marbling the beef is known for. When the time comes, highly skilled artisans from a family-run farmyard abattoir ensure minimal stress and total control over slaughter. All of the Ruby Red beef is hung as whole carcasses on the bone for four weeks to ensure the flavour that our diners love.
The Edenmoor team delivers between 60 and 70 ribs each week to the Grand Divan. So far, the response has been ecstatic. “When regulars of Simpson’s fed back that the beef was exceptional, that’s great news for all of us to receive,” says Stephens.
